What would you expect to find when following the footpaths across the Infernal Valley at the foothills of Vesuvius?
Close to the caldera of Mount Somma, the Valley was invaded by the lava from the last eruption in 1944, where there are not only the dark rocks but also sad and desolate colours: it has been colonised by the Stereocaulo Vesuvianum, a lichen which has covered it with a soft silvery carpet. This plant prospers on the sides of volcanoes, on relatively fresh lava, and covers it with the first layer of vegetation preparing the ground for the following more complex formations, such as valerian, broom and oxalis. During 1700s, as told by a French traveller from that period, moss in the area of Vesuvius, rich in mucilage, was used in the compositions of the first Italian powder compacts and then in the following century, in romantic fragrances inspired by nature and forest charm.
Moss comes from the symbiosis between algae and fungi, and is difficult to cultivate, even though it grows naturally in uncontaminated environments. The term “muschio” in Italian often brings about some linguistic confusion: in fact there is the tendency to define both the substances of vegetal and animal origin. Whilst in French and English two different words are used “mousse” e “musk” and “moss” and “musk”.
A substance known since ancient times, moss was imported from Greece and Cyprus to Egypt where it was used in the process of mummification. At one time, lichens were gathered in order to perfume sachets and cushions or put in potpourri, with iris root, cloves and flower petals. Thanks to its anti-microbe virtues, the Lichen from Island are also used as deodorants in phyto-cosmetic preparations.
The species Evernia prunastri is called oak moss. The best quality oak moss which is used in the fragrance industry, up until recently came most of all from the forests of Ex-Yugoslavia and Central Europe. It also grows in Morocco (Atlantic region), in Spain and in France, particularly in Alvernia, where it was traditionally used in druid medicaments.
A raw material with a very potent odour, and very persistent, with a smell of woodland undergrowth which evokes the earth, wood, humid leaves and autumn strolls, is one of the components of the woody facet and is often classified in the sub-category mossy-woods. In this way it has always participated in prestigious men’s fragrances such as, to name just a few,
English Lavender by
Atkinsons,
Pour Monsieur by
Chanel,
Kenzo pour Homme,
Polo Sport by
Ralph Lauren … It brings a natural touch of rigour and elegance to women’s structures such as
N° 5 by
Chanel,
Vent Vert by
Balmain,
Fidji by
Guy Laroche,
Ô by
Lancôme,
First by
Van Cleef & Arpels...But above all it has a determining role in fragrance family history because there wouldn’t be any
Chypre and Fougère compositions without oak or tree moss, an olfactory element which characterises these structures and distinguishes them from the others.
