Accademia del Profumo, associazione di aziende cosmetiche per la promozione del profumo, la storia, cultura, arte profumiera

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Your Questions

Olfactory terminology

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	What is the difference between eau fraiche and eau de toilette? (sent by Annarita il 06/04/2009)

The term Eau fraîche defines compositions which originate from the basic structure of Eau de Colognes (citrus fruits, above all lemon and bergamot, and aromatic plants such as lavender and rosemary) to which floral or musk notes have been added with the objective of modernising them and making them more in line with consumer tastes. Since 1966, the arrival of Hédione by Firmenich (an odorous molecule discovered in jasmine absolute in 1962), has given life to a whole family of Eaux fraiches’ such as, without doubt one of the leading men’s fragrances, Eau Sauvage by Dior.

Created indeed in 1966 by Edmond Roudniska, it opens with notes of lemon, petit grain and aromatic plants and develops along a central floral theme made up of Hédione and Hélional (another synthetic molecule which gives a touch of marine freshness). Vetiver, oak musk and white musk notes all contribute in giving this fragrance a classical, fresh and elegant, refined and virile feel which ensures that it is still today one of the preferred men’s fragrances.

Just to cite one of the first women’s Eaux Fraîches, we can remember Ô de Lancôme, created in 1969 by Robert Gonon of Firmenich: a fragrance which perfectly balances the joy and lively freshness of the Citrus notes with the elegant rigour of the Chypre nuance.

When we talk about Eau de Toilette we are referring to a percentage of concentrate which is present in the creation. In the case of EdT this content percentage is around 10/12 %, even if there are no specific regulations governing this level of content.. In the range EDT, EDP, Parfum, Eau de Toilette is also the type of composition which has more elements in its top notes so as to give immediate freshness and vitality.

	I would like to know what is the difference between raw materials and facets? Each family can be composed of raw materials from different origins (spices, citrus etc)? (sent by caterina il 01/01/2009)

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