The art of creation of a fragrance is anything but obvious and accessible: it is based upon the application of complex rules and methodologies which draw on increasingly more sophisticated technical instruments. From simple artisan workmanship it is evolving, in a natural way, towards a dimension in which scientific research and technological innovation constitute an added value to the rarity and the intrinsic preciousness of some raw materials.
There are about 3.000 raw materials available for a fragrance creator, classified in the “perfumer’s amphitheatre” (in French l’orgue) or organ, from which he can choose to “compose” his creations. The raw materials have different origins: natural, synthetic or reproductions and can be obtained through diversified processes of transformation.
With the available instruments, the technical knowledge acquired during his academic or apprenticeship programme, the Nose will compose a formula following a precise methodology.
He must use raw materials as an artist uses his colour palette, exploiting maximum effects and taking into account their interaction in order to give life not only to a unique but also physically stable creation using his chemical training. With another challenge: that of anticipating the olfactory result in his imagination during the initial phase of writing the formula down on paper. Just like a musician...
From a purely technical viewpoint, a composition is an assembly of a succession of complimentary raw materials.
Every accord of raw materials from the same family constitutes an olfactory facet with specific physical characteristics, which through evaporation with different volatile rates constitute the theoretical structure of the fragrance or “pyramid”, divided in 3 development phases: top note, middle note (or heart) and bottom note (or dry down).