Accademia del Profumo, associazione di aziende cosmetiche per la promozione del profumo, la storia, cultura, arte profumiera

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French spirit

French spirit: the great flow of tradition

The Niche Fragrance Perfumery of French inspiration begins, without doubt, in Grasse during the course of 1600 and 1700 from the savoir-faire art of the Master perfumers and glove makers. Who knows if history would have taken a different turn without the intervention of Caterina de’ Medici. When in 1533 the fourteen year old Caterina went to marry the Duke d’Orleans, future king of France, she also assigned to her followers her own perfumer Renato Bianco. René le Florentin, as he was called by Parisians, who soon became famous for his fragrances, introducing their use and passion to the French court.

After the Revolution, in 1800 the heart of creation moved to Paris where perfumers such as CREED, COUDRAY and MOLINARD (which remained at Grasse) created their composition for all the European courts. In many shops, ladies and gentlemen could also buy frivolous accessories for balls, perfumed ribbons and have personalised cosmetics and fragrances made for them by CABANEL, LUBIN o PARFUMS D’ORSAY.

At the dawn of the 1900s, fragrance creation, retained to be a true fashion accessory, moves to the great stylists and directors of the Houses: among the most significant examples PIGUET and Blanche Arvoy, the founder of JOVOY. From mid-century fragrance assumes an even more everyday dimension: companies which also manage import and distribution are formed following the creation not only of fragrances but also personal care objects and furnishing accessories (such as perfumed candles) … DIPTYQUE.

In these latter years there is a new breed of entrepreneurs and creators who introduce the era of conceptual fragrances, from the most eclectic inspirations. Names and Brands artistic heritages with centuries old National artisan tradition, among which ANNICK GOUTAL, JULIET HAS A GUN, L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR, LES PARFUMS DE ROSINE, MAISON FRANCIS KURDJIAN, MAITRE PARFUMEUR ET GANTIER, MONA DI ORIO, REMINESCENCE, BY KILIAN and PARFUMS DE NICOLAI, designers who apply their talent in different forms such as ANDRE’ PUTMAN, or who develop a persona concept of olfactory creation, such as COMPTOIR SUD PACIFIQUE, ETAT LIBRE D’ORANGE, EDITIONS DE PARFUMS FREDERIC MALLE, and TESTA MAURA

Faithful to the fame of “trendsetter”, the French artisan olfactory panorama embraces the total sphere (or pyramid …) of smells, from the original cologne, fougère, oriental, chypre to the infinite variations of floral themes up to the recent synthetic and re-visiting of historical theme experimentations. A kaleidoscope of perfume forms and stories which testimony the creative vivacity of this craft.