The presence of fruity notes is an ever increasingly evident phenomenon, particularly in women’s compositions in recent years, but can now also be found in men’s fragrances. They often accompany flowers: they give a touch of colour and vitality to fresh, springtime ones underlining with their romantic saucy aura whilst to the rich, opulent and passionate flowers they give a velvety mischievous sensuality which highlights their charm.
The vitality which they express, is capable of creating such a level of happiness and care freeness that it instils dynamism and energy to more classic and rigorous structures such as oriental, chypre and woods.
The trend began in the 80’s with Giorgio by Beverly Hills, Poison by Christian Dior and Calyx by Perspectives and the fragrance which has contributed to rendering the flowery fruity theme so much appreciated by the female public of various generations: Trésor by Lancôme from 1990. A true “classic”, with peach and apricot notes together with touches of violet, iris and heliotropine, for an elegant timeless effect. This theme is then so widely used that it is difficult to list them all. Just among the fragrances launched in the first half of 2008, there are among others: Daisy by Marc Jacobs, with wild strawberries and a delicate powdery inflection, Femme by Les Copains where cassis, green apple, apricot, water melon and fresh flowers create a contrast to the rich base notes of woods, amber and precious resins; Laura Biagiotti Donna, with black currant and plum; First Premier Bouquet by Van Cleef & Arpels in which peach blends with lily of the valley, pois de senteur and humid leaves for a fresh and green effect.
Did you know that there are no essential oils obtained directly from the fruit itself, normally due to its water content which is too high? Initially, fruity notes were obtained using synthetic molecules, such as some aldehydes,
for example C14 which gives a peachy note which can be found in Mitsouko
or C18 which reproduces the odour of coconut (Casmir
). Only two raw materials exist which don’t come from a fruit, but posses all of its characteristics: the osmanto, a flower originating from China and Japan, which reveals an apricot perfume and the black currant bud which develops a sharp green note which is very fresh. Thanks to scientific research and technology during the 1970’s, there is a breakthrough: the technique of Head Space is born
which has led to the enrichment of the olfactory fruity panorama with a multitude of new shades. They therefore give life and various inflections creating diversified evocative effects: fresh and sharp green fruits, such as green apple (Hugo Boss Woman, Be Delicious Donna Karan, Silver Black Azzaro);
transparent and delicate aquatic fruits present in Versace Donna
and Ferrè Rose.
The sunny radiance of yellow and exotic fruits (Cool Water Woman
, Bright Crystal
, the summer versions of Escada)
; the velvet touch of red berries which embrace the structure of Insolence
, of Delices
and of CKin2 for Her
, complete the infinite kaleidoscope of rich sensations from mother nature.