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The iris harvest
It is no longer a secret that the precious scent of the iris doesn’t come from the petals of its flower but rather from the rhizome. But how many people know that the laborious extraction process of the olfactory principle actually begins at this very time of the year with the harvesting of the precious tubers?
Many years ago, whilst roaming through the Chianti hills during the month of May, it was possible to see the amazing flowering of Iris Fiorentina or of its less know variant, l’Iris Pallida, whose cultivation for the harvesting of its rhizomes to be used in pharmacopeia and the cosmetic and fragrance industry still represented at the beginning of the last century, one of the main agricultural resources of Tuscany. Apart from the use of the essence, the finely pulverised rhizome is still used today to perfume talcum powder and face powders, as well as toothpastes and perfume sachets for drawers. It was a rural tradition to give a piece of the rhizome to babies to chew on when teething and it was also used to give a particular aroma to wine. A cooperative still exists today which promotes the production of iris and as from the beginning of July it is possible to see the artisan harvest of the rhizomes. 
In the morning, in the area between San Polo in Chianti and Poggio alla Croce, the farmers begin working in the fields very early in the morning when the air is still fresh and start to gather the rhizomes. Three years have passed from when the little shoots were planted (portions of the rhizome with roots and leaves) and each springtime they need to be cleared of weeds. The first phase of the harvest consists of “digging out” the iris from the ground using a small hoe called “ubbidiente”. Once the soil had been removed, the plant can be broken away from the rhizome leaving just the part needed for the re-planting. All the roots are then removed from the rhizome. The pieces of the rhizome which have been sliced are then left to dry in long rows of raised trellises. 
Iris rhizomes contain dominating molecules called “irones” which possess a very intense and penetrating odour, which explains the use of iris in the perfumery since the XVIII century the fame of iris powder. The drying period lasts for about two to three years in order to allow for the formation of the « irones » and maximise its olfactory effect; this is then followed by the distillation process. The substance obtained is called “butter” because at room temperature it is similar in terms of consistency and appearance. From 1000 Kg of fresh rhizomes it is possible to obtain 250Kg of dried product and after grinding and distillation 2 litres of essential oil are obtained. This explains why iris is considered one of the most noble substances of the olfactory palette and the price of the “butter” can reach very selective levels. Even when used in infinite amounts, natural iris has the capacity to give romantic sensuality and a delicate and nostalgic touch called “powdery” to all women’s fragrances. A charm which is also progressively colouring some men’s creations.
The Iris garden
For all lovers of this flower, an extremely unique show is given by the Iris garden of Florence, managed by the Italian Iris Society. Situated in the Piazzale Michelangelo, on the east side sloping towards the river Arno, the garden – open from 2nd to 20th May from 10.00 to 12.00 am and 3.00 to 7.00 pm – is an extraordinary living exhibition of more than three thousand varieties of iris.
Queen’s water
It is said that the aroma of violets obtained from the iris rhizome, was the favourite of Caterina de' Medici, who took the secrets of that odorous essence with her to France where it became known as the “Queen’s water”. Today the ancient recipe is only made by the pharmaceutical fragrance Shop of Santa Maria Novella in Florence, and ancient convent pharmacy which dates back to the 1200’s and which is the only one in the world to make the products following the indications of the Dominican Monks, remaining faithful to its centuries’ old tradition.