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Fragrance: the organic trend
In these last few years there is an increasing public awareness of problems relating to the environment in which we live and more and more attention to the health and wellbeing of our planet and its inhabitants. Terms such as “organic” are part of our everyday language and take on various aspects: from alimentation to architecture, to the pharmaceutical sector, to building and development etc, respect for the environment represents the central objective of the disciplines which activate and presuppose a correct ecological approach towards our ecosystem. Conciliate and integrate activities with human behaviour with the environment and natural phenomena, is the obligatory preface to improving our quality of life today and in the future. This commitment is also shown in the realisation of eco-sustainable packaging in materials and in the small details in an increasing number of products, with the aim of reducing to a minimum level waste and water consumption. But what motivates such a transformation?
Above all, an increasing ecological awareness and a new “economic” conscience, together with a desire to get back to nature. Technology, which enters in an ever increasing amount into all aspects of our existence, and the virtual reality in which we are increasingly immersed, generate in man the desire to rediscover and reconcile with nature in order to seek moments of evasion or search for new solutions for personal well-being.: the health aspect is acting as a catalyst in the development and diffusion of the “organic” concept among public opinion.
In this context, its application in the cosmetic field cannot be avoided. And new initiatives don’t wait long to show themselves, with the introduction of numerous ranges of hygiene and personal care products which transform the movement into a true beauty behavioural style.
As a confirmation of this phenomena, COSMOPROF 2010 has launched GREEN-VOLUTION, a wide area and vast programme of conferences and meetings dedicated to manufacturers and main eco-sustainable players.
“Organic” doesn’t just mean Natural and it is important to distinguish between “organic products” and “products containing organic ingredients”. The definition of procedures and standards has become not just an industrial necessity but also an ethical one.
In the absence of international or governing regulations, the need for certification by an independent authorisation can be found in the initiative of the voluntary norms CCPB and ICEA, organisms which producers can adhere to in order to obtain the relative certifications, guaranteeing the respect of substantial commitments and investments: product integrity, the meeting and maintaining of adequate quality standards, control and reduction of contamination, correct production, protection and hygiene systems.
Consequently:
- a transformation of the production chain in which all of its phases (production, transport, stock) must be carried out in separate environments and with appropriate materials which do not alter the substances they contain, - a different purchasing approach for the components and the conception of products, due to the presence of minimum 95% of natural origin ingredients and a minimum of 10% “organic” ingredients..
The term “natural” products is intended to include all vegetal products coming from agricultural production and for “of natural origin” natural products obtained only by chemical processes included in a restricted list. Also for organic ingredients it is intended an ingredient coming from vegetal agricultural production which conforms with Reg. CE 834/2007; in any case the use of irradiation using ionising radiation is not allowed, neither the use of GMs or derived products.
The latest organic frontier has been formed in alcohol-based fragrances, with the launch of the range Honoré des Prés and Testa Maura, guided by the desire to propose a new generation of products to consumers which reflect the “eco-awareness” spirit of our times.
New Generation, new products...New raw materials! Manufacturing Companies have developed a new concept for the perfumery: the identification of local production sources, quality and performance guarantees of the natural essences, advanced technology: a new olfactory palette is born..
What do fragrance creators think about this? Does “organic” in alcohol-based fragrances represent a new challenge? Is there a real olfactory interest in using organic essential oils? Do the inherent regulations to the concept itself, in addition to the regulations already present regarding fragrance composition represent a stimulus to creation? What olfactory innovations can be prospected?
There is talk of an Australian company which is about to commercialise a range of cosmetic products and fragrances which are so organic that it is possible to eat and drink them...and so we go full circle: will they become the Acqua Mirabilis of the XXI century?