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The culture of the New World, especially that before the arrival of the Europeans, is still a territory which has yet to be explored. Traditions, scientific knowledge, customs and habits of the pre-Columbian populations even today still seem to be cloaked in mystery, perhaps because they are not very similar to our roots, but not for this reason any less fascinating. Even though remote, arcane and different in all their forms and manifestations, the lifestyles of this New World have been inextricably grafted onto our own, so much so that they have become an integral part.
From archaeological research and from evidence collected form some of the first “conquistadores” we know that the ancient central American cities were designed and structured taking into account the necessity to live in pleasant environments, full of green areas, in which flowers such as the tuberose (polianthes tuberosa) with its inebriating perfume and lush fruit trees delighted the vision, taste and olfactory. An integral part of the daily routine was also personal hygiene, through the use of ritual bathing. During ceremonies and rituals the Aztecs burned incenses.
Lets take for example vanilla (vanilla planifolia), the only orchid cultivated for non ornamental purposes. It originates from Mexico, where it was used among the local populations for flavouring an energising cocoa-based drinks. On arrival in Europe, it became one of the fundamental ingredients of the oriental accord, animating compositions characterised with intense seductive power, to which it infuses its round, mischievous and insinuating notes which envelop in a sumptuous mantle the elegant rigour of woods and the mysterious charm of spices. Habanita Molinard, the first oriental fragrance, launched in 1921, was used to perfume tobacco. Sold in perfumed sachets to be kept in cigarette cases, in 1924 it became the «most persistent skin perfume in the world». The Maison Guerlain made this accord one of its “piece de resistance”, creating eternal fragrances such as Shalimar (1925), refreshed with sparkling and citrus touches which alleviate its warmth, Habit Rouge (a men’s fragrance from 1965) or such as Samsara (1989), whose woody notes create a precious frame to the warm tones from the Far East. Timeless fragrances capable of enchanting generations of consumers, in fact this year the creation of Shalimar Parfum Initial, created to “capture and win over women who weren’t even born when Shalimar was launched”.
Another important chapter are the “balsamic” notes, obtained from resins produced by trees originating from Central and South America (as well as the already known notes of benzoin and opoponax of Asiatic origin): Perù Balsam (toluifera pereira), Copahu (copaifera officinalis) and Tolù (toluifera balsamum), with their round warm notes, sinuous and embracing, together with vanilla and labdanum they’ve given new life to the amber accord which is continuing tobe recognised as one of the most important modern olfactory tendencies. One of the founders was Alien (2005, Thierry Mugler), whose silky softness of the amber notes and sensual magnetism of sambac jasmine melt into a fragrance with dreamy suggestions. Alamut (2005, Lorenzo Villoresi) with leathery accents, Ange ou Demon (2006, Givenchy) with gourmand touches, Kenzo Amour (2006) delicately wrapped in a cloud of face powder and white musk, Serge Noir (2008, Serge Lutens) with woods, leather and spices which highlight its mysterious atmosphere, L’Eau Ambrée (2009, Prada) and Eau Duelle (2010, Diptyque) are just some of the “interpreters” of this trend.