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The fashion for perfumed leather, introduced in the previous century, had a rapid success. Everyone wore the "fragrant leather" perfumed with ointments of jasmine for example. Gloves, waistcoats, doublets, shoes, belts, caskets, fans were all treated in this way. Important gentlemen had the habit of ordering soft waistcoats from Grasse, impregnated with perfumed ointments.
In January of 1614, the glove perfumers received a license from the king which gave them "the permission to call themselves and to qualify themselves at the same time both glove makers and perfumers".
The success of the glove perfumery of Grasse was the origin of a considerable extension in floral agriculture.
The three plants used most often in this era by the perfumery were jasmine, rose and tuberose.
Jasmine coming from the Indies appeared towards 1650 in Grasse. At the same time rose cultivation began with the rose volgaris. The tuberose, which came from Italy, was established towards 1670. The area of jasmine cultivation on the outskirts of Grasse could be estimated at about 15 hectares at the end of the XVII century.
Established in laboratories of modest dimensions, during the reign of Luigi XIV the glove perfumers became a rich and powerful element of the Provencal economy.
The creation of the Indies Company greatly helped the development of the profession which then received the first raw materials directly in France (musk, patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood) without having to pass through Italy or Spain.